A fantastic place to stay, worthy of all the praise it has been getting. Casa da Farmácia is located in the small town of Armamar, a ten-minute drive from the south bank of the Douro, in the middle of breathtakingly scenic wine country. The town itself, though old and dramatically situated, is not as well preserved as some of the others in the region. But this also means that it is a bit off the radar and very quiet and peaceful. Casa da Farmácia is located right in the town--so if you prefer one of the historic Quintas with a pool on a giant tract of land this may not be the place for you. That said, it is less expensive than most Quintas, and gives up nothing in terms of charm, comfort, cleanliness, and food. Ah, the food. José (who owns and runs the inn with his wife Marlene) is a very knowledgable, creative cook, and for 20 Euros per person he will serve you a top-notch four-course dinner worth at least twice the price (I mean this literally: my wife and I ate dinner at the Michelin-starred DOC just down the road during our stay, and José's cooking was just as unique and sophisticated). What is more, he and Marlene are two of the most unpretentious, gracious and helpful hosts you will ever meet. They go out of their way to give you the best experience possible, from detailed day-trip itineraries to tasty snacks for the road (the latter for a very small price). José is also flexible with the menu he offers, and can accommodate dietary preferences.